Tuesday, November 22, 2011

This...is...SARKAD! (part 1)

How to explain Sarkad?  Well, let's start with this -- after ten days in Hungary's capital we moved to a small, remote farm town on the border of Romania. 
Budapest
And Sarkad...
Now, small remote farm towns aren't that foreign to us (hell, I taught in Jerseyville for 12 years) -- however, living in a small, remote farm town on the border of Romania is something else entirely. 

We got up on our first day in Sarkad and made our way to my school, Ady Endre--Bay Zoltan Gimnazium Kozepiskola es Kollegium (yeah, that's right). It wasn't difficult -- it's only a 3-5 minute walk depending on if the back gate is open or not. 

Front of my school
To the right of the school is a fenced in courtyard where students hang out in between classes, if the weather is nice.  
Courtyard -- student dormitory on left and more classrooms on right
The church by our apartment is in the background
This creek runs between the main school and the courtyard

I still can't believe there aren't any "accidents" involving students/books/hats ending up in the creek. There is just a little sidewalk that winds around the courtyard next to it.  It really wouldn't be a stretch to actually have an accident.
Back of the classrooms and dormitory
Back of my school
And from the school looking back toward the creek and dormitory
And I almost forgot -- 
The school parking lot
BACK TO THE STORY  --

As Meliss and I walked into school, the teachers were all walking out of a meeting.  We met up with Sylvia and she introduced us (much like a receiving line at a wedding).  It was a lot of "hello," "how are you," "nice to meet you," -- that about sums up most of my everyday school conversations. There are 3 or 4 teachers that speak some English at my school...and since we speak little to no Hungarian...well, there is a definite language barrier. That being said, everyone is really friendly -- it's just that we have no way to really communicate.  

What's really crazy is when like five or six teachers get into a conversation around us when we are at school. It's hilarious and/or frustrating depending on our mood.  Meliss has taken to participating in these conversations by trying to look thoughtful and saying stuff like, "you don't say," "wow, that's really something," etc. I just keep my head down and make up fake conversations...usually dealing with fantasy football. 

Anyway, we went into the teacher's lounge (the tánari, as it were) and rifled thru my desk to see what materials I had.  

Sylvia explained that Andras and Zsuzse (pronounced Andrash and Shuzhee, but we call them Andrew and Susie) were going to pick us up to take us to Melissa's school. This was a big relief for "us."

Sylvia (who speaks fluent English) also informed me that there were teacher meetings on Tuesday and Wednesday that I need not attend and so I should just return on Thursday.  No argument there!

Andrew and Susie showed up soon thereafter and we hopped in a car for Gyula.  At this point, Melisss and I were clinging to each other for life. We had stayed pretty adamant about sticking together these first few days...at least until we could figure out how to successfully get from one town to the other. If they took Meliss to Gyula, then I was going as well. No questions asked.  Ok, we did ask, but it was no problem and off we went for Gyula. 

A lot of what they said on the ride to Gyula (about the school, our roles, and about teaching in Hungary) makes more sense now (3 months later) but it didn't at the time -- we were just happy to get some answers about Melissa's teaching arrangements.  I do recall that Andrew and Susie also made mention of the gypsy problem in Sarkad (if you are scoring at home, that would be two warnings in (our first) two days about the gypsy problem in Sarkad...comforting.
Susie and Andrew (Melissa's contact teachers)
Andrew dropped us all off at the bus station and Susie briefed us on bus transportation.  Then, we walked through the city center on the way to Melissa's school.  Gyula is a tourist(y) town in southern Hungary. Tourists come for the castle and for the thermal baths. The thermal baths are used to cure all sorts of ailments including, but not limited to, arthritis. As such, it is a tourist town for old people (kind of like Branson, but less Yakov).

We walked into Melissa's school -- Gyulai Romai Katolikus Gimnazium, Altalanos Iskola, Ovoda es Kollegium (we had to look that up) -- (it's Roman Catholic, that's all we could figure ) -- (and I didn't even put the squiggles and umlauts on all the letters) -- (Melissa really missed working at EAWR at this point!) -- and met many of her teachers. 

Melissa's school (pictures of which will be posted on the Gyula blog coming up) has several teachers that speak English -- so that was helpful (but, they're all named Csaba {Chaba}, as far as we can tell).  On this day though, we were sent to THE DIRECTOR.  Ok, that's a little over the top, but that's what they call the principal type person.  Still, we were beckoned to his office. Along the way Susie even told us how nervous she was...and she's Hungarian.  

We walked in and I swear it was like that scene in The Natural when Robbie Redford goes to meet with the shady owner that didn't like having any lights on.  Plus, this guy's name was Zoltán.  So, we sat in Zoltán's darkened office and he buzzed questions at us (thru Susie) about teaching, life, and other matters. It was TERRIFYING!  

Update: he loves Melissa (she teaches him English for one lesson a week) and has invited us to live in Gyula for next semester.  

For all of that, at least we found out that Meliss had a teacher's meeting on Thursday (which she did have to attend) and she would begin teaching the following Monday -- so done and done. 

Except that we still had to make our way back to Sarkad -- and that meant the bus.  This was our first bus trip alone.  As we waited for the bus, we decided it was probably best to just go with "Sarkad?" and hand the driver some money.  He looked at us, laughed a little, took our money, and we found a seat. It's about a twenty-five minute ride to Sarkad from Gyula and we just hoped we would end up there -- and then recognize it when/if we did. 

It has been three months now and I still have to ask the bus driver if I am getting on the right bus (and by ask, I mean walk up, say "Sarkad?" or "Gyula?" or "Békescsaba?" {two of which I can't exactly pronounce} and then hope he understands me.  I have had to get off of several buses because of this).  

On this day though, Meliss and I made it back to Sarkad and that gave us two days to clean and unpack in our new home.  

After cleaning, we struck out onto the mean streets of Sarkad.
Sarkad bus terminal (it's right across the street from the flat)
Blurry picture of our fountain -- I think Meliss was dodging a bike when she took this
The loud church
One of several different horse carts
The guys driving it always look at us like we're strange for taking pictures of them!


Above is the sign for the Real grocery store and the store itself.  For the first few weeks, we just walked around Sarkad checking things out. The most excited we got was when we stumbled upon a new grocery store (there are 4 of them).  Each has a few things we want, but none have everything we need, which means grocery shopping includes walking to all of them.  

Our tiny Tesco (we have seen these as large as Super Walmarts in other towns)
Penny Market is the furthest away so we go there the least.
Also, the security guy follows us around the whole time we're in there.
The last one is the CBA and it's our favorite because the the produce section has less gnats and fruit flies than the others. Also, the CBA is where I first attempted to buy lunch meat for us.  I went after school to buy some turkey. I know the word for turkey -- it's pulyka.  Turns out that I knew how to spell the word for turkey but did not know how to pronounce it. 

I went to the counter, pointed at the sliced turkey, and said, "Pull-e-ka." The lady just shook her head. So, I tried "Pool-e-ka." Nope.  "Polka?" Nothing.  I looked around for a second and was happy to see that not too many people were going to witness what happened next.  I pointed at the meat and did my best turkey gobble ever. The lady about fell over laughing, then called all her co-workers over and told them. A bit embarrassing, sure -- but I got that damn turkey!

I don't think the lady was messing with me but on the way home I thought about how far off I could've been from the right word (it's "poo-e-ka").  Pointing at turkey and saying something that had to be close to turkey should do it right?  Oh well. The good part is that now when Meliss and I go in we get waited on straightaway, just in case I do something else stupid for them. 

Our other favorite place in town is the húsáruház (butcher -- or something close to that).  When we were leaving Budapest, the only thing Hajni (our director) told us about Sarkad was that we should be very happy because they have a great butcher. Take from that what you will.
The butcher of Sarkad
Inside pics coming soon
And what he sells...
The first time we went in, the butcher was hacking some hooves off some animal's leg (guessing pig, but wouldn't bet on it). Then, those smaller hoof chunks were placed in the display case.

It's a very small place -- and there were just hunks of meat hanging on the wall and  others jammed in the display case in front of us. I wouldn't say that we recognize all the food in there yet -- there are certainly some parts and chunks that we hope we never have to eat -- but we do know what animal the meats are coming from at this point (without having to make any animal noises).

Usually we buy a piece of meat, take it home, and use the translator to figure out exactly what part of the pig, cow, turkey we have.
Back on the street...

Primary school across the street from our flat
The trees block our view of it from the balcony so we thought we were
in the wrong town when we first saw it from the bus
Another primary school down the road a bit....
We thought this was a bit violent for the little ones?
Trianon is the treaty the Hungarians were forced to sign at the end of WWI
They are not happy about it

Seeing these well manicured lawns made us feel more at ease -- we were a little
worried about this horrible gypsie problem --but this all seemed very normal
An average backyard (or garden as they say)
More horse cart action!
Walking on left -- bikes on right
Another street -- we tried to keep the church in sight (not terribly difficult) to avoid getting lost

I don't know if you can tell -- but look at how pointy those nails are! We have seen these in person and they look deadly
Horse cart -- I took a camera to school with me and stopped class just to get this picture
On the other side of town (about a fifteen minute walk), is Lake Eden. Meliss was still dealing with her mosquito phobia so we didn't spend too much time here, but long enough to get some pictures. 







Lake Eden Hall of Fame
I am not swimming in that lake.
Ok -- so that's Sarkad!  Well, not quite.  We'll have more pics from inside the butcher's shop and some of the grocery stores. Also, stuff from my school...and more horse carts as well!

We were going to add the first days of school to this one but it's too long already -- so that will be next.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

The Road to Sarkad

UPDATE: 
CARDINALS WON THE WORLD SERIES!!!!!!!
GAME 6 WAS UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
This is how we watched all the games!  Thank you Mac

True Cards' fans wake up at 2 AM to watch the game(s)!
(or buy the MLB Package to watch it recorded a day later since there is no one around to tell us what happened)
----------------------------------

We woke up on the last day of Orientation and it was a strange feeling once again for us. We had, in a way, become pretty comfortable in Budapest...and now it was time to leave.  All we really knew was that some lady named Szilvia (Sylvia) was picking us up and taking us to our new home in Sarkad...and we started school the next day.

We were excited to get this thing started though...maybe that's why the orientation is so intense -- that way everybody is happy about getting out of there.  We had packed the night before and took all our luggage to the lobby and piled it with all our fellow CETPer's crap and then waited. 

We had some time to kill and walked down the big hill from our hostel one last time to have a coffee and to buy postcards (which took 3 weeks to arrive in the States).  Plus, Meliss (and this seems silly now) was a bit on the stressed (read: freaking out) side because we hadn't heard ANYTHING from her school at this point (classes started the next day and we didn't even know where her school was besides a town name...or how to get there...or what time it started...ok, maybe it wasn't silly).  We actually contemplated how long we could make it if we arrived in Sarkad and she had no job.  

We had our coffee (which did wonders to calm Melissa's nerves -- oof) and made sure to stop and say goodbye to Bernardo (who, by the way, just picked us up at the train station in Budapest last week to help us get on the right subway in order to get to our bus stop in time to make it to Vienna) -- then headed back to the hostel.  Along the way, we saw a van parked on the side of the road with a guy sleeping across the front seat -- bare feet hanging out the open door.  It was, after all, a hot day.  We were going to take a picture but didn't want to wake him.

Back at the hostel, we took our seats by the other orphans and waited to be collected.  Eventually, Hajni (the director of the program) introduced us to our contact teacher, Szilvia. She was soft-spoken and seemed very nice - we didn't know then (obviously, we had just met) but Szilvia and her husband Lajos (LA-yosh) ARE very nice and have been a tremendous help to us. Melissa has since had to apologize to Szilvia for hugging her all the time because we weren't sure if that was acceptable after all we heard about Hungarians during orientation. Szilivia doesn't care...she just laughs.

The program paid for lunch and so we grabbed some sandwiches and water (we grabbed A LOT of sandwiches and water) and headed for our ride.  As we walked the first load of luggage down the hill we realized that the barefoot guy was now awake and eager to help us load our crap in the back of the van.  At least he was well-rested.  

That was that -- said goodbye to a few folks, grabbed the rest of our stuff, and headed for the van. Szilvia introduced us to Sandor (Shandor) who spoke no English whatsoever -- so we gave him a sandwich and off we went.


It was similar to the feeling one might get as a rollercoaster begins -- we just looked at each other and laughed because we had no...and I mean NO...idea what to expect from where we were heading. We picked Szilvia's brain about life in Sarkad and Gyula, our respective schools, and specifically answers about Melissa's next day. She had some, but not all the answers and we were still kind of in the dark as far as how/where/when Melissa had to do what the next day -- but it all felt a bit better as we rode out of Budapest. However, she did say that we should just come to Sarkad's school the next day at 10 AM and we'd work it out from there.  So, done and done.

Speaking of, the only highways in Hungary are around Budapest. It would be similar to, let's say, 270 around the St. Louis Metro area.  Outside of that, we're talking about 267 or 109 to Jerseyville type of roads -- everywhere else.  

One of the better roads -- at least we felt safe to lean forward and take a picture
It took about a half an hour to clear the highway and then it was madness. We thought Sandor was insane -- riding bumpers, passing people when there was no room to pass, buses careening towards us, etc. (as Meliss and I slowly put our seat belts on). As it turns out, everyone in Hungary drives that way. Even mild-mannered Szilvia zips past people when we ride with her (granted she is passing horse carts, but still).

At about this point, Sandor turned on the AC and rolled up the windows (in an effort to appease the Americans, I think).  It got extremely warm for awhile and then he and Szilvia exchanged a few words and asked us if it was ok to roll the windows down. It was -- but the damage had been done and Meliss and I soon fell asleep.  

We woke up a bit later and could not believe what middle to southern/eastern (just knew we weren't north or west) Hungary looked like.  

We're not in Kansas anymore - wait, yes we are
Or Illiniois
Or Indiana
What the @#$@#! 

We came all this way for Illinois? Did Sandor magic us back to I-55 to Bloomington? As far as we could see on either side -- corn and wheat...and apple orchards.  Shoot -- we could've just gone to Eckerts!

As we closed in on Gyula and Sarkad, Szilvia explained that Budapest really runs the country and the rest are all just following along in a lot of ways -- we explained that Chicago and the rest of Illinois are pretty similar.  Well, this is just great.

Szilvia also offered to drive us through Gyula and by Melissa's school -- but first coffee. We stopped at a roadside gas station, went in for coffee and they gave us -- get this -- four cups (real glass cups) and four saucers. We went out and sat at a picnic table and had our cappuccinos (I spelled that wrong three times before getting it right) and espressos.  Sandor invited us to his wine cellar in Sarkad (ok, we think that's what he said because while we are getting better at it -- it's damned difficult having a conversation thru a 3rd party interpreter).

Sandor had one more stop to make.  He pulled off to the side of the road at a li'l market to buy some peaches and apricots. He bought one each for Meliss and I and we stood by the side of the road and ate fruit. 

Again, new country -- new continent -- but just like buying Calhoun peaches on my way home from school...seriously strange. However, it was super nice and pretty much the opposite of what we had been told about Hungarians. Sandor was always smiling and happy -- talking to us (thru Szilvia) the whole trip -- a lot of fun. 

To be honest, orientation scared the bejeezus out of us regarding Hungarians. Not OF Hungarians necessarily -- but maybe about how we'd be received. Two idiot Americans in a small farm town on the border of Romania? Sandor and Szilvia could not have been nicer to us -- but we were still reticent about life in a small, close knit community.

Back in the van and on to Gyula.  

Bucharest (Romanian capital) is a long way away...but Arad, Romania is not too far
 (in kilometers, so maybe...who knows)

Getting close!
We were wide awake now and taking in everything -- at one point near Békescsaba (the biggest town close to us) we saw a sign for Gokarts.  We joked about how funny it would be if that sign actually meant for real Go Karts...it did.  We really did think that was just a Hungarian word that happened to look the same.  Again, we are not terribly smart.  

Anyway, we made it to Gyula. We had seen pictures (most of you have seen them too) but seeing this place for the first time was incredible. It really is a beautiful little city (not to jinx it -- but we are probably moving there by January).

And then we hit Sarkad. Well, it is not Budapest...it's not Gyula...but it's been home for about 3 months and we have really enjoyed our time here.  As we rolled into the apartment complex, two teachers and two students from my school were waiting to greet us there. They had a welcome card for us and helped us get into the apartment...ahem flat. 

Melissa tearing up

Yep, Welcome IN Sarkad -- Melissa blubbering

And full on tears....we made it!
As I grabbed the bags and loaded myself like a pack mule, Sandor grabbed a bag and went to take Melissa's roller luggage (thanks EAWR!).  I said, "Nem, (that's no -- and one of the few words that doesn't involve strange squiggles, or dots over the letters, or rolled r's) she can get that!" (Szilvia translated) and he just laughed and asked (thru Szilvia) how long we'd been married.  

We got to the 3rd floor of the complex -- I climbed 8 sets of stairs, I don't know how that equates to 3 floors, but whatever -- and they all showed us around. The flat was amazing...not amazing in the sense of "Oh, this was so much more than we expected," but amazing in that it was better than the apt. we lived in when we first got married (Pics coming in next blog).

From left to right...Mogdi, Udit, Orsolya, Doty, Szilvia


SANDOR!!!! (on the left)
Afterwards, Szilvia's husband Lajos picked us up and the four of us toured Sarkad.  It was a short tour, but two things were readily apparent to us. 1 -- Our apartment complex is the second biggest thing in town (a church is first -- it's also the loudest -- it's also really close -- did I mention it's loud?) and 2 -- according to everyone we've spoken to, we are not to mess with the Gypsies (much more on this later as well). 

They took us back to the flat and we said our goodbyes (them: viszonlatasra -- us: goodbye).  Then, they left. And Meliss and I stood in the parking lot and realized that we were the only two English speakers in the whole town (a definite "wow" moment).  So, we went and bought two bottles of wine and watched CNN World which was (the only station) in English. 

Coming up: Our flat, life in Hungary -- Sarkadian style, and our trips to Eger, Romania, Bekescsaba, and Vienna!